The Kingdom of Elmet

Barwick-in-Elmet, Sherburn-in-Elmet. The Parliamentary constituency of Elmet and Rothwell.

Fine, but where was Elmet? You can ask the question, but nobody can give you an exact answer. A similar area to the old West Riding (which included much of South Yorkshire)? Somewhere from Leeds to Selby? The poet Ted Hughes believed its heart was in the Calder Valley. Something that’s recorded in the tribal hidage is that it was 600 hides, which is a value rather than geographical measurement. Even so, it was small.

It was a British kingdom that abutted Saxon ones, but it was also a forest, according to Bede. It might have existed before the Romans came. Some many possibilities, but so little fact.Certainly it had its own rulers. However, we know of very few people from Elmet. Two of them were warriors mentioned in great the Welsh epic, Y Gododdon: Gwallog ap Leenog (ap meaning son of) and Madog Elfed. There was also a king of Elmet named Ceredig ap Gwallog. Bede mentions that after Gwallog’s “subsequent kings made a house for themselves in the district, which is called Loidis ” – the first written mention of the area that became Leeds, at least in a very general sense.

Bede also mentions “the monastery the lies in Elmet wood” and it’s possible that might be a reference to the ancient church at Ledsham. The south date, which leads into the west tower, dates from around 700 CE (making it the oldest building in West Yorkshire), and much of the original nave survives.

While there’s nothing to indicate Elmet’s origins, it seems virtually certain that it vanished somewhere after 616-17, thanks to Edwin of Northumbria, possibly by invitation, but it possibly by negotiation. Yet, as Bede shows, the Elmet name remained more than a century later.

It’s possible – but not substantiated – that it might have regained its independence after Edwin’s death and remained that way until Viking times, which might explain the names of the small towns.

Curiously, it received another mention in 1315 in a Florentine bill of sale for wool, where it’s curiously distinct from Leeds.

d’Elmetta (Elmet) 11 marks per sack

Di Ledesia (Leeds) 12½ marks per sack

di Tresche (Thirsk) 10½ marks per sack

de Vervicche (York) 10½ marks per sack.

I’m grateful to Lost Realms by Thomas Williams for some of the information here.

Some advertsing, I’m afraid. The holidays are coming, and books always make ideal gifts. If someone you like enjoys history and crime, why not buy them A Dark Steel Death, the most recent book in my Tom Harper series. They won’t be disappointed, I promise. Your local independent bookshop can order it or, you can find the cheapest price online here (with free UK shipping).

Thank you.

Very Early Leeds

A warning.

Much of this is smoke and mirrors. Hint and rumour.

Are you prepared? Right then, now…

Leeds. We know it, right? It’s where many of us live, one of the biggest cities in the North of England. The best place on earth.

The last part is true, and yes, Leeds is a city, but that happened not quite 130 years ago, a flash in the pan of history.

Do we know Leeds? We might think it’s always been here, a solid part of the country. But the first mention of a place that might be Leeds doesn’t come until the 730s, when the Venerable Bede writes about the area of Loidis.

Even by the time of the Domesday Book, it was a village, a large hamlet, really, with 35 families, about 200 people. But it did have a church and a priest, giving it higher status than many other villages.

Wind the clock back, though, and things grow murky. Pure fog, in fact.

If the story of Leeds has an origin, it’s in Malham Cove, where the River Aire rises. It nurtures Leeds, the artery to the coast and all the places beyond. It was here long before anyone dreamed about Briggate, even before the Armley hippos – three of them excavated in the gyratory.

However, little sign of humans from before the Bronze Age have been discovered in Leeds. A flint scraper in Ireland Wood, dated to the bronze age. Bonze chisels in Roundhay, a bronze axe in Hunslet.

An urn under Briggate (discovered in 1745) with burnt bones.

Possibly some burial mounds on Woodhouse Moor. They’re all isolated finds, however, no sign of a settlement – athough the technology to search for one didn’t exist back then.

Some signs of Bronze Age settlement and querns for grinding corn were discovered not far from the old Cookridge Hospital, and a few things at Ledston, a village 10 miles east of Leeds (which along with Ledsham, fits into that Loidis root name with Leeds). But nothing that close.

It’s believed there were earthwork defences built around Leeds – Temple Newsam, Gipton, Chapel Allerton and Woodhouse Moor; some believe that the name Rampart Road might be an atavistic reference.

Nothing to indicate a any buildings close to the river, although the waterway would probably have been in regular use. The area has been dug over and built on so much in the last few centuries that any signs are long since gone, in a time before we even knew what to look for.

It bring us to the Romans. Were they here? Did they have a settlement? We don’t know. Possibly Leeds is Cambodunum, the fort that exist on the Roman road from Tadcaster to Manchester. Leeds first true historian, Ralph Thoresby, speculated it might have been on Quarry Hill, although even by his time, it has been dug over and built on so much, it was impossible to tell. But part of the area was once known as Wall Flats, which some feel might refer to the wall surrounding a fort.

There are some artefacts from the greater Leeds area: a stone sarcophagus in Chapel Allerton (now sitting on a mound outside St. Matthew’s church there (when dug up, it was closed, but only held two bones – I write a short story about it in Leeds, The Biography). Another burial in Hunslet. An altar, and coins. But nothing to show any kind of settlement.

The road very likely did pass through Leeds. Work in the early 19th century uncovered a road of sorts just south of the river, leading to a ford.

It’s all tantalising, but so much is speculation. To all intents and purposes, Leeds, Loidis, Ledes, didn’t exist until Saxon times.

At that point we hit firm evidence.

Next time.

I’m duty bound to remind you that my new book in out, A Dark Steel Death, featuring Tom Harper and set in 1917 against the backdrop of the home front in the Great War. Ask your library to stock it, or if you can, please buy it yourself. Or even both. Thank you.

The Oldest Building in West Yorkshire

A few days ago I happened to read something in passing about the oldest building in West Yorkshire. It’s a church, of course, dating back to someone in the 700s CE, and it looked as if a fair bit of the original building survived.

It’s in Ledsham, about 10 miles east of Leeds, and a little north of Castleford. The name, according to Wikipedia, derives from ham, the Saxon word for home or farm. The conjecture, though, is that Led is an early reference to Leeds. Curious, as in the same period, Bede referred to Loidis, and later it became Ledes; there’s no other apparent reference to Led in relation to Leeds that I know of. It’s even more intriguing as there are two other villages close by, Ledston and the wonderfully-named Ledston Luck. Regardless of name, All Saints church still deserved a visit, and it was certainly worth the time.

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This is the original entrance, at the base of the tower at the west end. The decoration, sadly, is 19th century. But the original tower had two storeys (there’s a small blocked-in window higher up, as well as other blocked-in Saxon windows along thesSouth wall.

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It’s quite easy to make out the original nave, although the church was added to in Norman times – they increased the height of the tower, for example) and again in the 13th and 15 the centuries, adding a north aisle, replacing the chancel, putting in larger windows, and transforming the original porticus into what’s now the porch.

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The final restoration came in 1871, and was quite tasteful. A couple of things that didn’t come out in the pictures, though, are the fragments of an old cross built into the north aisle wall and an ancient stone used in the tower arch with a Roman carving of a cleaver in it.

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It’s a place well worth a visit, and there’s more to see in the graveyard. Hard to be certain, but this looks to be from 1665. If so, it’s worn remarkably well. No guarantees on this, though.

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And there’s even the mason’s name at the bottom.

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The church would be enough. But behind it stands a row of 11 stone cottages, dating from 1610. They were built for workers in the orphanage built by Lady Elizabeth Hastings (which also still stands, now Hastings Hall). The cottages are well-tended, and these days let to older residents of the area.

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Down past the hall is the old school house for Ledsham, about the same vintage as the hall and cottages, with the bell in the small tower above the roof.

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Didn’t stop at the local pub for lunch, at least not on this visit, but it’s called the Chequers, and has existed on the same spot since at least 1540.